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Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G Modern and beautiful
details.
Continuing the brand's well-known intention to bring
Calatrava alive, Patek Philippe unveiled a new classic
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watches, the Calatrava ref, at Watches &
Wonders earlier this year. 5226G-01.
referee. The 5226G shows where the Calatrava range is
headed - a more modern design, although still influenced
by retro models, so faux retro lumens, enhanced with
sharper and higher quality detail. Despite being an
entry-level watch (albeit at a high price), ref. Still,
the 5226G is well-crafted. Nail decoration found in last
year's reference. For example, the 6119 “Clous de
Paris” has been redesigned and applied to the case
strap.
My first encounter with a referee. When the 5226G appears
on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of the
Watches & Wonders Patek Philippe, it appears in surreal
form.
The projected proportions mean that the patterned dial
and stud-like case are immediately visible. While the
entry-level Patek Philippe's elements are unexpected,
they work well together on screen and in real life.
My positive impression was reinforced when I tried on the
watch during the show. Even reference. The 5226G is a
combination of elements that don't normally come
together, and it's striking and attractive in metal.
While the dial is reminiscent of a vintage military
watch, the polished case with its studded strap and solid
numerals on the dial give it a sophisticated feel.
Of course, the individual elements of reference. The
5226G is ordinary and works well, which is perhaps why
the model has been criticized for appearing to be
derived. But like some other Calatrava designs, ref. The
5226G combines familiar elements in an unusual way - with
a high level of execution quality - to produce a touch
that can best be described as attractively high-end. In
other words, reference. The 5226G is a highly refined
watch for the gentleman explorer.
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From a broader perspective, the referee. The 5226G may be
a milestone in Calatrava's development. I think it's more
appealing than the limited edition ref. 6007A, one of the
first modern designs of the contemporary generation.
Reference basket weave pattern. The 6007A seems a little
too classic for a "modern" Calatrava. On the other hand,
reference. The design of the 5226G is coherently modern
in its various elements.
The only downside to the reference, as is often the case
with Patek Philippe. 5226G is the price. The reference
price is $39,030. The 5226G is one of the most expensive
time and date watches of its kind, priced higher than
comparable watches from Lange or Vacheron Constantin.
But reference. The 5226G is a Patek Philippe - like
Ferrari, the name is worth a lot - and it's a package
that's very well-balanced in all dimensions, design,
size, finish and feel. True, referee. The 5226G performs
better than most other Calatrava models. Equally
important are the referees. With an unusual aesthetic,
the 5226G is classic and recognizable, an achievement for
watches in this segment.
Of course it's a reference. The 5226G wasn't the only
watch of this style introduced during the show. Its more
complicated sibling, ref. 5236G, with both annual
calendar and second time zone functions.
Between the two, I prefer time and date references.
5226G, because its thinner, more compact form factor
feels more elegant and simple. Although I appreciate the
technological innovation of its big brother ref. Due to
its thickness, the 5236G feels bulky. At the same time,
the simplicity of reference. The 5226G brings out the
details on its case and dial.
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Although the reference dial and case. The 5226G is a
novelty for Calatrava, and the chassis is definitely the
highlight. The pattern of nails in the middle of the case
is a pleasing detail that gives the watch its unique
character, yet subtle. Refer to the hobnail bezel. The
6119 has its fans, but some will no doubt find it too
much. in reference. 5226G, the three rows of studs are
only visible on the side.
The hobnail decoration means reference. The 5226G has the
most refined case found on an entry-level Calatrava. The
clous de Paris case decoration is unique in the
collection and has historically only appeared on much
more expensive complicated watches, such as the ref.
5531R Minute repeater world time.
Compared to the typical stamped case of the latest
Calatrava models, the nailed case is clearly more
challenging. On the one hand, despite the lugs, there is
the challenge of adapting to the pattern. The solution
was simple: a two-part case in which the lugs were
separated from the middle of the case and instead
attached to the back of the case. This case construction
allows for more elaborate case decoration, which explains
why Patek Philippe is turning to it more and more often.
Unlike the traditional welding of lugs to the middle of
the case, the lugs are integrated with the case back.
This means that the middle of the case is actually a ring
with an uninterrupted stud de Paris pattern on its sides.
The smart structure also allows for noticeable visual
breaks between elements, while avoiding tedious welding
processes. That said, this method creates a noticeable
gap between the lugs and the case, which is a bit
inelegant (and can collect dust), but luckily the seam
isn't noticeable when the watch is on the wrist .
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While the middle of the case is complex, the bezel and
lugs are simple and rooted in historical design. I
especially like the flat bezel and angular lugs
reminiscent of vintage models, such as the ref. 3448.
Despite their simplicity, both are unique design elements
closely associated with Patek Philippe. The style
disappeared for about half a century, but it was a
reference first. 5235 annual calendar regulator and
recent impressive reference. 5236P built-in perpetual
calendar.
The pointed lugs and smooth bezel give the watch a
satisfyingly sharp look, perfect for modern dials. In
fact, the consistency between case and dial is another
reason why I prefer ref. 5226G to ref. The 6007A, it has
soft rounded lines on its case.
A final comment on the case is about its size, which is a
bit large for a Calatrava at 40mm, but still compact
relative to most modern watches. But in typical Patek
Philippe fashion, reference. The 5226G is relatively thin
at 8.53mm, so thin that it looks too flat. But it looks
just right on the wrist, neither too big nor too thin.
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Except for the case, ref. The 5226G is easily
distinguishable from previous Calatrava models by its
dial. Finished with an almost organic grained embossed
pattern, the dials are adventurous for a manufacturer
that primarily produces watches in the traditional style.
Camera lovers will see the dial texture reminiscent of
the pebble leather wrap found on vintage rangefinder
cameras, which is the inspiration Patek Philippe cites in
its launch announcement. While the texture may come from
the camera, the dial design is almost certainly modelled
on the ref. 565 "Night Watchman," Calatrava from the
1940s, sold for a record price in 2016.
The textured surface is treated with a gradient, which
gradually darkens towards the edges and culminates in a
black minute trail. Although "smoky" finishes are common
in nearly every price segment these days, gradients are
especially useful on refs. 5226G. It counteracts the
grainy texture and makes the dial look more dynamic.
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The luminous lacquer on the hands and hour-markers is a
dark beige, adding a warm tone to the dark dial and also
complementing the charcoal grey. Normally I don't like
this faux patina, but here it's subtly used to complement
the dial rather than create a faux vintage look.
But aside from obvious features like brightness and
texture, the dial has a lot more to offer. Details such
as the central seconds hand and Arabic numerals enhance
the sporty feel of the textured dial, elements typical of
military watches.
Interestingly, the hands and hour markers are almost
identical to those in the reference. 53.2 million
perpetual calendar, but the two watches look completely
different. The "syringe" hands and Arabic numerals work
better here, especially in this dark grey finish on the
grained dial.
Another detail I like is the typography. Because of the
font, the numbers are reminiscent of the dials on vintage
Patek Philippe watches, including a "hook" seven and a
flat-topped four.
While the applied hour numerals are in a retro font, the
five-minute markers are decidedly modern. The numerals on
the minute track are flat and stubby, adding a touch of
instrument-like functionality to the dial.
The double font of the numbers also makes sense, as the
dial is essentially two-piece, with different finishes
and colors for the center and minutes track, effectively
creating a two-tone dial. Notably, the minute track is
relatively wide, helping to fill the dial without
compromising its proportions. That's one of the reasons
why the watch looks good, even though the case is wider
than the movement inside.
Internal reference. 5226G is cal. 26-330 SC, one of Patek
Philippe's latest generation movements. It might look
familiar because it's an upgraded version of the long-
running cal. 324, which has powered most of the brand's
automatic replica
men watch over the past three years, including
complications.
In a significant upgrade that changes cal. 324 enters
cal. The 26-330 SC is a countdown function that stops the
balance when the crown is pulled, a feature that is
extremely rare in Patek Philippe watches.
But Carl. The 26-330 has more significant unseen
technology upgrades. This includes the fourth wheel
(which drives the seconds hand), with spring bars
integrated into each tooth, preventing play or kickback,
allowing for a smooth movement of the seconds hand. The
other is a spring integrated into the rotor upper
sprocket for improved winding efficiency.
As with most current Patek Philippe movements, the cal.
The 26-330 SC also features a Spiromax hairspring, the
brand's in-house silicon hairspring. Spiromax debuted in
2006, but has improved over the years by applying nips
and pleats to its geometry and shape. Silicon hairsprings
offer several advantages over traditional metal alloy
hairsprings, including excellent resistance to magnetism
and temperature fluctuations, and silicon does not suffer
from material fatigue over time like metals do.
All the technical upgrades do increase performance and
the movement is guaranteed to run within +3/-2 seconds
per day and is now standard on all movements of the brand
bearing the Patek Philippe seal. This is a compact range,
one of the strictest among the premium brands, surpassed
only by the standards of industrial giants like Rolex.
In terms of finishing, Carl. 26-330 looks a lot like cal.
324 10 years ago. It's attractive thanks to the gold
oscillating weight and stripes on the bridges, but up
close you might see a clean industrial finish.
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But under a magnifying glass, it's clear that the
finishing has been improved compared to recent watches of
the same class. This may be due to the increased
manufacturing capabilities of Patek Philippe, or it
simply reflects the incremental improvements that Patek
Philippe has implemented in its timepieces.
For example, the chamfer of the bridge is not only
polished, but more pronounced and definitely rounded,
rather than with the milling marks typical of traditional
industrial finishes. In addition, the corners of the
bridge are sharper, and the slopes meet at careful
points.
Another white gold Calatrava watch features three hands
and a date - one with a movement that looks like a cal.
324 is there - ref. The 5226G might not look special on
paper. Even the vaguely military style isn't unique. But
reference. The 5226G is surprisingly compelling in both
design and execution.
The watch has clearly been designed with great attention
to detail, and those details have been crafted to make
almost everything just right. With an impressive dial and
case, it clearly stems from the design and manufacturing
expertise Patek Philippe has accumulated over the past
two decades of vertical integration. While no doubt an
expensive watch, ref. The 5226G is good value for money,
probably better than most of its predecessors.
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Patek Philippe Calatrava
Ref. 5226G-001
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 8.53 mm
Material: 18k White Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: 26-330 SC
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date
Chain: Automatic Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 35-45 hours
Strap: Black embossed calfskin, additional beige calfskin
strap, matte finish
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